A King Tiger tank with real reduction gears, brushless motor

After the glue on the aluminum tank is now hard enough, I first removed the stabilizing bars.
Which are each time a little stuck, but if you rotate it out with a screwdriver it's really easy.



To then be able to check the fit of the upper hull I had to edit something that too. The old fixtures and fittings must cast all away and the first sites I have sanded smooth.



Then I could check times as the aluminum tank in the plastic upper hull fits ....... better than expected ....







But before I can adjust the chain nor the covers I have to adjust the nose cone. But this is only possible when the adhesive after heat treatment is sufficiently strong.

Hello Edwin,
if I had seen it before gluing the brass bushes, did not you demand on the strength of the glue.
The brass bushes they make no effort, are interposed between the profiles aluminum plates, good job ..... fantastic work!!
All very accurate and the lower part fits well with the upper part, smooth continuation ......... are curious when I see works so well made.

After the heat treatment of the tub is finished as far as I can edit them without having to fear that I vandalize. Also edit the files with the bow is a not to be underestimated burden of splices, especially if the file time roughing.



And so now the upper hull fits perfectly on the lower inlet.







Moreover, one sees time again as just the plastic parts are so ..... : cursing:



One has to align to each other as closely as possible the parts then the chain plates now be able to adjust fairly accurate.



After I adjusted the chain covers these were glued to the pan.



Thus, the bonding is not over yet, but you will still see it.

By the way, I also have milled and machined the gear cheeks.

Being able to do precisely match the two sides is not easy.
Sometimes the plastic is deformed, I once used the heat gun, but it seemed that the plastic thermal memory had returned and always wrong, just keeping in shape and with a rapid cooling I was able to straighten it.
also the casings of the gears .... waoooo

hi,

works best still straighten with hot water because of the softening point of the plastic at about 80 ° C. That should but on a flat surface, make you force the part previously in the desired shape and also fixed after heating so is allowed to cool. Everything else is not working properly.

The gearbox plates shall be constructed as stable as I do. Engines with a maximum 450W which I still use to build heavy flywheels.

This time I'm doing the first swing axles done, because I need to stick to the thrust bearing in the tub.

After I got the 18 piece 3mm silver steel rods cut and sanded these are soldered to the washed-bearing pieces of the axes.





When soldering is necessary to make sure that really all the surfaces are wetted with solder. In order to succeed needs the tin of course some space and the rods may only loosely stuck in their bores. But then you have a good and durable connection.



Since the bars are soldered to play something I have to align before further processing first, and only need the ends match. That is done most easily if one makes also use a rotary steel and reverence as the axis rotates so long and gently bend until they are no more than 1/10 differs.



So I can then revise the axes with a blue buff.





Now I can install the thrust bearing in the tub. These are simply plugged into the holes in the bars and axes aligned with the swingarm. So I can attach them each with a drop of glue. It needs more of these camps do not they need to be secured by the adhesive only on the Move.





Now I have to wait again.

After yesterday I needed the axes in the tub I'll do this today and finished verklebe it with the rocker arms.
This bonding is probably the hardest and most highly charged of everything that I do, but if you do it right it's like welded.

First off I had to remove the set screws from the rocker arms. The fall out over and bask away they are sanded and the stop pins.



Before bonding, all contact surfaces must be completely free of oxides. Just so you get a really durable bond.
Then I can put together part by part.



Since the axes are sitting with some play in the rocker arms I built a simple bracket to align this.



So they can now stand up to the setting of the adhesive and come back the heat treatment.

I'm with no words!!!

ciao , complimenti per il proseguimento del tuo splendido modello con scafo e non solo auto costruito con maestria anche nell'utilizzo del tornio e tecniche varie ...... mooolto interessante , buona serata robby62 ciaooooo

Yes, and then it goes with the suspension on.

The swing arms are ready to install and as far as the way I have the reinforcement angle of the chain also covers attached.



Then again I first wound springs and that it is worth the same and more.





As I have already prepared as far as most of the small parts I could immediately start the installation.

The swing arms again get a plastic cover plate and an O-ring that holds the bearing clean.



And so then ever sees the front part of the suspension in which I set the adjustment rings in the middle to even with gearbox installed this yet to be set.