A small improvement on Famo

  ennesimo gran bel lavoro con i riduttori del famo e motorizzazione brushkess ,   ma la cosa fantastica come sempre sono i lavoretti al tornio riguardanti i riduttori e relativi ingranaggi o latre leccornie di precisione , un salutone da robby62 ...  

And on it goes with the reconstruction of the Famo .

First, today the cover of the countershaft to the series . The built-in storage there are also only for a 4mm shaft and much too small.



So I have the first deed for the day turned up to 12mm and used the new bearings .





Since the new bearing sleeves are slightly larger than the old connections , it was necessary to drill out the terminals within 13mm . Not so easy with the giant part .



So then I could even make a first pass test .



Since I change the design of the countershaft something and shut the housing to the frame , it is necessary well to rid the splices of oxide.



And so I can clog the countershaft to the frame and clean and straighten with the help of axles and transmissions , so that later it can turn easily .





The whole thing must now first cure for at least two days , but tomorrow I 'm gonna be at a meeting of the Famo us can stand .

Ottimo lavoro in generale......    ci sono però degli ingranaggi dentro al riduttore che sono fissati agli alberi tramite grano e sono un pochino delicati proprio nel punto dove si avvita il grano.....   
 

Today it will be exciting ...

I want to fix the gears on the drive axles .

But first I have to turn down the pressed-in hub , but this is quite simple.





Fortunately, the hole is slightly smaller than the 8mm, I need for the axes , and so I can turn down to fit .

But in order to tighten the gears without damage and with perfect concentricity I 'm a little Hilsmittel , ... a so-called lost collet.

For this I use a matching scrap piece of brass whose outer Diameter I turn larger than approximately 1.5 mm as it is the gears and then prick it with a short edge .



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At this sleeve I turn off the still standing edge to a small and only slightly larger in diameter remnant and use this as a stop of the sleeve lining. Until now, the sleeve must be moved in the feed , after turning down no more, I 'm somewhat deeper than the gears are wide.





The gears I push gently until it stops in the sleeve and eighth always that this is not moved. Only in this way it retains its precision. Then I pull the jaws too tight and the gear is solid and free of damage clamped by the sleeve. So I can unscrew the hole clean and without shock.





Then I check the fit of the gears under the cover and safety also again the chain track.





On the axles I makiere the position of the gears and loop at this point .



Since the gears sucking sitting on the axles, I file a couple of corners in the bore of the braze can penetrate.



How do I solder then the gear hard on the drive shaft.







Now I just have to try and clean the shaft with the gear .







The axes are now no longer held on the axes in position by screws in the gears , the Duch rigidly connected to the axle gear in the gear reducer .

       

Slowly, the transmission is finished now .

Since the drive wheels of the exit waves would have only a grub screw to fix because of the higher power of two is necessary. So just a second attached .





And so can you then remove the bottom plate into the transmission install .



Once again everything is screwed together I can devote myself to the final installation of the countershaft .

This I fill completely with graphite grease .



The rim of the lid is made clean and gets a thick Pattexraupe as a seal in which the lid is pressed wet. This keeps the lid firmly addition , seals and can be relatively easily removed when needed. That there is always some fat suppressed by the camp is quite as provided by me. The orginale also were not very clean and so the penetration of water and dirt will prevent the countershaft .



And so it now looks ready mounted gearbox . Unfortunately, it does not sit perfectly straight in the frame, but that this can not be , since I can not so readily put the countershaft and it is so defined by the frame and all the other fixings , but it should work anyway. The now -lubricated gearbox running in this position dachtel even better than I , and will shrink even further.



Now I just have to store the new idlers as the 3mm shafts have proven to be too weak.

To this end, I remove the old axles and ball bearings , and thrust the idlers with a 7mm drill out .



For the stock I make a brass rod down to about 7mm , with a rough surface is desired in this case.



This it I glue into the idlers and let it harden until tomorrow .



Meanwhile, I started to program the controller to test the transmission that runs better and quieter than I thought and am now the programming options . This Famo will not receive separate drive control but can only be controlled via the transmitter .

  con questa up sul famo ci mostri vera arte meccanica applicata al modellismo dinamico .....     ogni tuo lavoro e' un vero spettacolo da ammirare foto per foto , saluti e buona settiman robby62 ....   

And further you go with the Famo .

The new bearing of idler wheels are now glued and I can drill out now . But this I had to somehow find a meaningful focus as this is a very life of their own in each direction have . So I have it clamped such that the outer disk running at its calmest , mounted the bearing bore H7 and rubbed.





The next work was then the production of the axes. This I cut from 4mm silver steel, which I solder a shim hard as a stop. To this end, I put the washer with a little flux centered on the axis and a small piece of silver brazing alloy in the middle. So I now can with a gas burner axis from bottom to heat the braze runs clean.







After cooling, the axes clamped in the lathe and dressed with rubber polishing pad . But do not forget the cover of machine guides , since the rubber dust is very agrssiv and this damage can .



So now I was able to install the idler wheels . Unfortunately, the drive and the idler wheels is still sleeping a little . The Idlers I could do at least as far .



So I then pulled the chain , the chain tension set provisionally and will also fit a battery holder for the tests.





The first variant of the programming then has the basic features and functions the same, but unfortunately after a meter tiled floor the steering linkage given up the ghost .



The times I have to fix tomorrow and then it continues with driving tests and the setting. I would incidentally also strongly recommend a servo saver for the steering servo . If the chain Gripp has not even fall on what the front wheels. The Famo drives still there where I control .

  ola' edwin , man mano che il progetto del famo prosegue diventapiu' interessante seguirne la costruzione dei dettagli , dai risduttori ai motori , ruote , cingoli eccc, i complimenti   non si sprecano e sono starmeritatiiii...... saluti robby62   

After I had repaired the steering and a bit've played in the programming, the Famo could now go take his first steps.

However, I am still not satisfied with the result. This is still much better.

But what also needs to be revised again is the steering. The ball heads strike and block this and I can not set the necessary steering angles. The top speed is even higher, since it is later used with 3S and I drive with 8 Nihm cells. However, the strength is already there.
Basically, I can say that the steering is simply ignored by the chain drive on tile floor before.